Slater, Nerds.

Surfers figured it out. Kelly Slater figured it out. Those guys who ride fucking 35 foot waves figured it out. You’re probably thinking… com ‘on Esteban, how did some dude who smokes weed and cruises on his surfboard figure it out? In no way do I want diminish surfing to that, because surfers are the ultimate fucking bad asses, but for that the sake of this blog post please bear with me

Surfers figured out a way to be one with the chaos. They are quite literally riding chaos. A wave is chaos. If it's big enough it will destroy everything in its path. But surfers said FUCK THAT, I’m 

gonna be ONE WITH IT. If they are lucky enough they can sit inside a barrel, safe from the crest pounding them into the coral below them. In a place of perfect tranquility, but still surrounded by danger. 

How is this not a perfect metaphor for how to approach life? I don’t fuckin surf, but for real. YOU GOTTA CATCH THE BARREL OF LIFE, RIGHT? 

I feel like i get wrapped up in the wave sometimes, like I can’t quite catch the barrel. Being on tour for 6 months out of the year, first of all making sure I’m alright... mentally and physically alright, then trying to be the best drummer, musician and friend i can be…. trying to maintain some form of a romantic life and making sure I stay in touch with my family, on top of whatever curve ball that life decided to throw my way that day.  

I’m sure you can relate to the forever feeling you are approaching the unknown…. rather the unknown is approaching you (a wave). But you haven’t quite found out how to catch a continuous barrel. There’s moments of it though, right? When it feels like everything is flowing around you seamlessly. Like you are a matador and life is merely a bull running through your cape. And then other times it feels like you just got slammed down into the ocean floor and you're gasping for air. 

Either way, thats the goal, my friends. Catch a barrel. I have yet to master it, and even catch a proper barell brahhhhhh, but hopefully one day I will. 

What wave are you trying to ride? Have you found yourself in the barrel? How so? What activity brings you there? Please leave a comment I'd love to hear your thoughts.

With love.

Esteban 

Photo that we used at the top was taken by TODD GLASS of KELLY SLATER